The Giza plateau today

A field guide · Fourth Dynasty · c. 2600–2500 BCE

The Giza Plateau

Three kings, one ridge of limestone, and roughly eighty years of continuous building. What they left behind has outlasted every civilisation that came to look at it.

Plate — The Giza plateau todayMustang Joe · 2023 · CC0
00One ridge of limestone

Giza is not a single monument. It is a working landscape — quarries, harbours, causeways, temples, cemeteries and a town for the people who built it — laid out on a shelf of limestone on the west bank of the Nile, at the edge of the desert.

The plateau was chosen for what was under it. The bedrock here is a hard nummulitic limestone that could carry enormous weight without settling, and it could be quarried on the spot. Most of the stone in the pyramids never travelled more than a few hundred metres. The site also sat close enough to the river that a seasonal harbour could bring in the materials that did have to travel: fine white casing limestone from Tura, across the water, and granite from Aswan, eight hundred kilometres upstream.

Three kings of the Fourth Dynasty built here in succession — Khufu, his son Khafre, and Khafre’s successor Menkaure. Each built a complete complex: a pyramid, a mortuary temple against its east face, a walled causeway running down the slope, and a valley temple at the harbour. Around them spread the ordered grid of mastaba tombs where the court was buried, arranged in streets like a city of the dead.

Everything else that Giza has become — a wonder of the ancient world, a puzzle, a backdrop — was added by people who arrived later and found it already old.

Topographic plan of the plateau, surveyed by Napoleon's engineers. The three pyramid complexes, their causeways and the mastaba fields are all laid out here.
Topographic plan of the plateau, surveyed by Napoleon's engineers. The three pyramid complexes, their causeways and the mastaba fields are all laid out here.Description de l'Égypte · 1809 · Public domain
146.6mOriginal height, Khufu

About 138.5 m today, with the capstone and casing gone.

2.3MBlocks, Khufu

Averaging roughly 2.5 tonnes apiece.

~80yrsThe whole plateau

Three complete complexes, built in succession.

3,800yrsTallest on earth

Until Lincoln Cathedral's spire, around 1311 CE.

The guide

Man fears Time, yet Time fears the Pyramids.

Arabic proverb, in wide circulation since the nineteenth century

A place that was always being visited

By the time Herodotus arrived in the fifth century BCE, the pyramids were already more than two thousand years old and the local guides were already telling tourists things that were not true. Roman visitors scratched their names into the casing. Medieval Cairo quarried the smooth outer stone for its own walls and mosques after an earthquake in 1303 shook much of it loose.

The modern record begins with Napoleon’s expedition of 1798. The scholars who travelled with the army spent three years measuring and drawing, and the enormous Description de l’Égypte that resulted — published in volumes between 1809 and 1829 — is where most of the engraved plates in this guide come from. They were followed by Lepsius in the 1840s, Petrie in the 1880s with instruments accurate to millimetres, and Reisner from 1902 onward, whose excavation of the mastaba fields ran for forty years.

A visitor being hauled up the north-east corner of the Great Pyramid by local guides — a standard tourist experience of the 1870s, and a dangerous one.
A visitor being hauled up the north-east corner of the Great Pyramid by local guides — a standard tourist experience of the 1870s, and a dangerous one.Maison Bonfils · 1867 · Public domain
The pyramids and the Sphinx at sunset, seen from the south-east

The pyramids and the Sphinx at sunset · Description de l’Égypte · 1809 · Public domain

About the plates

Why so many old pictures?

Partly because they are free to use. But mostly because the early record shows things that no longer exist: the Sphinx buried to its shoulders, the pyramids before the plateau was fenced and floodlit, the casing stones still lying where they fell.

The engravers of the Description also had a habit of drawing what they thought ought to be there. Their plates are beautiful and only partly reliable — which is its own kind of historical evidence.

Browse all the plates →